What equipment do I need for the MIDI Output feature of Show Buddy Setlist?

What equipment do I need for the MIDI Output feature of Show Buddy Setlist?

The MIDI Out feature in Show Buddy Setlist is primarily intended for controlling hardware FX (like the Roland GT-10 or TC Helicon VoiceLive examples shown in the 1.1.0 release video).

For this, you (obviously) need some external equipment that can be controlled via MIDI commands. Some equipment supports MIDI directly via USB, so all you need to do is install the appropriate drivers and plug the equipment into a spare USB port.

In other cases, where the equipment does not support MIDI over USB, you will need a separate USB-MIDI interface for your computer. Your external equipment would then plug into the MIDI interface.

Show Buddy Setlist can also send MIDI to other programs running on the same computer, via a MIDI loopback driver (such as LoopBe on Windows or the standard IAC MIDI driver in macOS). This would let you, for example, synchronise video playback on a VJ program like Resolume with Show Buddy Setlist – assuming your computer is powerful enough to run both Show Buddy Setlist and the VJ program simultaneously.

Show Buddy Setlist Export to MIDI feature doesn’t work with simultaneous cues

Problem

You create a lightshow in Show Buddy Setlist which triggers multiple masked presets simultaneously, to build up full looks. When you export this lightshow to a MIDI file and import it into your MIDI sequencer, some of the simultaneous presets do not trigger correctly in the MIDI plugin.

Solution

Try increasing the “Minimum gap between cues” value in the Preferences window, and re-export your MIDI file.

Show Buddy Setlist can trigger multiple presets across multiple banks simultaneously without any problems. But this is not possible in the VST/AU plug-in, due to a limitation in MIDI – if the plugin receives 3 notes on ch 15 (bank changes) and 3 notes on ch 16 (preset changes) simultaneously, it has no way of telling which bank change belongs to which preset. Bank/preset changes in a MIDI track must be staggered by a few milliseconds to get round this problem.

The Show Buddy export function will stagger simultaneous bank/preset changes automatically for you, but you may need to play with the “Minimum gap between cues” value to find a reliable setting which works with your particular host & setup.

Backing up and restoring your Show Buddy Setlist data

Backing up and restoring your Show Buddy Setlist data

Show Buddy Setlist stores all your track, lightshow and show information in a single database file. As you create and edit your tracks & shows, Show Buddy Setlist automatically and silently saves your changes to the database – there is no File Open or Save option as is found in document based programs.

Your audio tracks (e.g. wav and mp3 files) are stored separately in the Show Buddy media folder.

You can create full backups of the above data from the File > Backup shows… menu option. This will archive the database and your audio tracks) into a single .sbb file. It’s a good idea to backup your database regularly while you are editing, and before each live gig (so you can always recover to a known point should something go wrong).

To restore from a backup, select the File > Restore from backup… menu option and choose a .ssb backup file (or a .dbb backup file from older releases of Show Buddy Setlist).

Manually backing up and restoring your show data

If you prefer you can manage backups manually, by copying and restoring the required files directly from Windows File Explorer or macOS Finder.

The Show Buddy database file is located here:

  • macOS : /Library/Application Support/db audioware/Show Buddy/ShowBuddy.db
  • Windows : C:/Program Files (x86)/db-audioware/Show Buddy Setlist/ShowBuddy.db

For the location of your audio files, look at File > Preferences > Media files location

How do I create a new fixture for use with Show Buddy Active?

How do I create a new fixture for use with Show Buddy Active?

Use the online fixture editor

The easiest solution is to use the online fixture editor. This public fixture database is an easy way to create new fixture definitions, and to download fixtures already created by other users.

Simply go to fixtures.dmxis.com and create an account. More help and a tutorial video is available on the fixture editor page.

To import downloaded fixtures into Show Buddy Active, select File > Manage fixtures… from the main menu, and click the Import… button.

Manually create a fixture file

If you do not want to use the online editor, you can manually create the fixture file in a text editor. Fixture files must be saved as plain text format. 

Fixture file internal format

Each Show Buddy Active fixture file contains a simple list of channels. Each channel in turn contains a number of ranges covering 0-255 (the range of possible DMX values).

For example, a 3 channel fixture with Pan/Tilt/Speed channels might look like this:

Pan
V,0,255,
Tilt 
V,0,255, 
Speed 
V,0,255,
  • Each range contains the fields type, min, max, label
  • Type can be V (variable), S (static), D (dimmer) or B (blackout)
  • Variable ranges are displayed as a percentage under the DMXIS slider
  • Static ranges only display a label under the DMXIS slider.
  • Only Dimmer ranges will react to the DMXIS Master Level control.
  • Blackout values are automatically loaded for that fixture when the Show Buddy Active Master slider is set to minimum.
  • If the label is blank (as above) we only see a percentage displayed under the fader.
  • Static ranges always need a label (or you will see an empty label uder the slider!)

You can mix static & variable ranges in one channel. This is necessary, as manufacturers often squeeze lots of features into a single channel:

Gobo
S,0,30,Closed 
S,31,60,Circle 
S,61,90,Tunnel,
S,91,120,Open, 
V,121,255,Spin

How to display 0-255 values under a Show Buddy Active channel fader

Question: I am creating a Show Buddy Active fixture definition. How do I make a channel slider display 0-255, rather than the 0-100% default range?

Say you add this “Zoom” channel to your fixture file:

Zoom
V,0,255,

As you move the slider, it will display a 0-100% value. If you want to have more precise control, simply replace the V,0,255 line above with this block of text:

S,0,0,0
S,1,1,1
S,2,2,2
S,3,3,3
S,4,4,4
S,5,5,5
S,6,6,6
S,7,7,7
S,8,8,8
S,9,9,9
S,10,10,10
S,11,11,11
S,12,12,12
S,13,13,13
S,14,14,14
S,15,15,15
S,16,16,16
S,17,17,17
S,18,18,18
S,19,19,19
S,20,20,20
S,21,21,21
S,22,22,22
S,23,23,23
S,24,24,24
S,25,25,25
S,26,26,26
S,27,27,27
S,28,28,28
S,29,29,29
S,30,30,30
S,31,31,31
S,32,32,32
S,33,33,33
S,34,34,34
S,35,35,35
S,36,36,36
S,37,37,37
S,38,38,38
S,39,39,39
S,40,40,40
S,41,41,41
S,42,42,42
S,43,43,43
S,44,44,44
S,45,45,45
S,46,46,46
S,47,47,47
S,48,48,48
S,49,49,49
S,50,50,50
S,51,51,51
S,52,52,52
S,53,53,53
S,54,54,54
S,55,55,55
S,56,56,56
S,57,57,57
S,58,58,58
S,59,59,59
S,60,60,60
S,61,61,61
S,62,62,62
S,63,63,63
S,64,64,64
S,65,65,65
S,66,66,66
S,67,67,67
S,68,68,68
S,69,69,69
S,70,70,70
S,71,71,71
S,72,72,72
S,73,73,73
S,74,74,74
S,75,75,75
S,76,76,76
S,77,77,77
S,78,78,78
S,79,79,79
S,80,80,80
S,81,81,81
S,82,82,82
S,83,83,83
S,84,84,84
S,85,85,85
S,86,86,86
S,87,87,87
S,88,88,88
S,89,89,89
S,90,90,90
S,91,91,91
S,92,92,92
S,93,93,93
S,94,94,94
S,95,95,95
S,96,96,96
S,97,97,97
S,98,98,98
S,99,99,99
S,100,100,100
S,101,101,101
S,102,102,102
S,103,103,103
S,104,104,104
S,105,105,105
S,106,106,106
S,107,107,107
S,108,108,108
S,109,109,109
S,110,110,110
S,111,111,111
S,112,112,112
S,113,113,113
S,114,114,114
S,115,115,115
S,116,116,116
S,117,117,117
S,118,118,118
S,119,119,119
S,120,120,120
S,121,121,121
S,122,122,122
S,123,123,123
S,124,124,124
S,125,125,125
S,126,126,126
S,127,127,127
S,128,128,128
S,129,129,129
S,130,130,130
S,131,131,131
S,132,132,132
S,133,133,133
S,134,134,134
S,135,135,135
S,136,136,136
S,137,137,137
S,138,138,138
S,139,139,139
S,140,140,140
S,141,141,141
S,142,142,142
S,143,143,143
S,144,144,144
S,145,145,145
S,146,146,146
S,147,147,147
S,148,148,148
S,149,149,149
S,150,150,150
S,151,151,151
S,152,152,152
S,153,153,153
S,154,154,154
S,155,155,155
S,156,156,156
S,157,157,157
S,158,158,158
S,159,159,159
S,160,160,160
S,161,161,161
S,162,162,162
S,163,163,163
S,164,164,164
S,165,165,165
S,166,166,166
S,167,167,167
S,168,168,168
S,169,169,169
S,170,170,170
S,171,171,171
S,172,172,172
S,173,173,173
S,174,174,174
S,175,175,175
S,176,176,176
S,177,177,177
S,178,178,178
S,179,179,179
S,180,180,180
S,181,181,181
S,182,182,182
S,183,183,183
S,184,184,184
S,185,185,185
S,186,186,186
S,187,187,187
S,188,188,188
S,189,189,189
S,190,190,190
S,191,191,191
S,192,192,192
S,193,193,193
S,194,194,194
S,195,195,195
S,196,196,196
S,197,197,197
S,198,198,198
S,199,199,199
S,200,200,200
S,201,201,201
S,202,202,202
S,203,203,203
S,204,204,204
S,205,205,205
S,206,206,206
S,207,207,207
S,208,208,208
S,209,209,209
S,210,210,210
S,211,211,211
S,212,212,212
S,213,213,213
S,214,214,214
S,215,215,215
S,216,216,216
S,217,217,217
S,218,218,218
S,219,219,219
S,220,220,220
S,221,221,221
S,222,222,222
S,223,223,223
S,224,224,224
S,225,225,225
S,226,226,226
S,227,227,227
S,228,228,228
S,229,229,229
S,230,230,230
S,231,231,231
S,232,232,232
S,233,233,233
S,234,234,234
S,235,235,235
S,236,236,236
S,237,237,237
S,238,238,238
S,239,239,239
S,240,240,240
S,241,241,241
S,242,242,242
S,243,243,243
S,244,244,244
S,245,245,245
S,246,246,246
S,247,247,247
S,248,248,248
S,249,249,249
S,250,250,250
S,251,251,251
S,252,252,252
S,253,253,253
S,254,254,254
S,255,255,255

The slider will now display 0-255 values (allowing you to accurately position the slider), and you can directly type in 0-255 numbers by clicking on the value under the slider.

My DMX lighting fixtures are misbehaving. Help!

My DMX lighting fixtures are misbehaving. Help!

If you find that your lighting fixtures are not responding reliably to commands from your DMX controller (be it Show Buddy Active, DMXIS, or any other lighting controller) there are a number of things you can check.

The first thing to realise is this – DMX hardware problems are horribly difficult to diagnose. DMX communication is a very simplistic thing, with absolutely no error correction. When things go bad, they go bad in a confusing manner:

  • A poor quality cable connecting two fixtures might cause intermittent faults with a completely different fixture.
  • Changing the order of your fixtures could move the problem around randomly. An intermittent connection in a connector might only show up a problem once in a 3 hour show, as the room heats up.
  • Cheaply made fixtures might throw out interfere which causes other fixtures to misbehave – yet those fixtures will behave perfectly when connected alone.

Murphy’s Law dictates that these problems will hit you 5 minutes before showtime. So with this in mind, there are a few important guidelines which I recommend you observe.

Don’t use cheap mic cables to connect your lights. Please.

You will read many articles and forum posts from people who swear that they have “never had a problem using mic cables” and that “overpriced DMX cables are just a rip-off”. But the fact is that mic cable and DMX cable is quite different, and the difference becomes more significant as your cable runs increase in length.

DMX is a digital signal, and a long run of cheap mic cable will smudge out the nice sharp digital edges – to the point where  fixtures have difficulty in distinguishing the offs from the ons. DMX cable is designed to carry a digital signal and does not do this (primarily, for the tech geeks out there, due to the lower capacitance of DMX cable).

Also, beware of using really cheap cables sourced from unknown retailers over the Internet. Or if you do, inspect the workmanship INSIDE the connectors yourself before taking them out on a gig. See the picture below, this is the inside of a free DMX cable supplied to me with a brand name fixture from a reputable retailer. Sometimes, cheap cables are cheap for a reason.

Inside cheap dmx cable

My personal opinion is that if you’ve spent hundreds or thousands on your lighting rig, it makes no sense to risk the inevitable problems that cheap cabling could bring you.

Take care of your cables and test them regularly.

Learn how to coil your cables properly (Google for videos on “cable over under”) and don’t tie them in a big knot when you load out at the end of a gig.

Inspect your cables regularly to check for wear & tear, especially at the connectors.

An XLR cable tester box is an invaluable investment for anyone wiring up PAs or lighting rigs on a regular basis. With an XLR tester, you can quickly check a cable for breaks, shorts and – very usefully – intermittent faults.

Have you properly terminated your DMX line?

The final fixture in your DMX chain must be fitted with a DMX terminator. This is simply an XLR connector containing a single resistor, and it prevents reflections of the DMX signal from travelling back up the DMX line, causing errors. It is particularly important to fit a terminator of your DMX cable run is long (over a hundred feet or so).

Again, you can read plenty of people who say that their rig has always worked perfectly without a terminator. But they’re probably just lucky, and one day – eventually – the DMX monster will bite them in the backside.

Clashing fixtures

So, you’ve checked your cabling and terminated properly, but your fixtures are still misbehaving. You might now have a more complex issue with your rig.

Not all fixtures are made equal. Many cheaper fixtures are developed to incredibly tight budgets, and some manufacturers won’t a spend a lot of time or money in testing, making sure that their fixture [a] conforms to the DMX specification and [b] works well in a variety of rigs with other fixtures.

Consequently, it’s quite common to find that when you add a new fixture to your rig, it causes interference and problems with the others. Again, these problems are incredibly hard to diagnose, because often the fixture causing the problem is not the one that exhibits the fault.

In cases like this, a DMX splitter is your friend. A splitter box takes one DMX input (from your controller) and splits it into a number of electrically independent DMX outputs. You then hook up the problem fixtures to one output, and the rest of your rig to another. Problem solved. Splitters also make it easier to route your DMX cabling around the stage. Two things to remember:

  • Each chain of fixtures connected to a splitter outout need its own terminator plug (as discussed above)
  • Don’t attempt to use a simple audio Y-cable to split a DMX chain into two branches, THIS WILL NOT WORK.

Controller issues

If you’ve ran through all the above checks, and you still have reliability problems with some fixtures, it’s time to investigate if your controller is causing the problem. First, take ONE fixture that is misbehaving, connect it directly to your controller with a short DMX cable and terminate it.

Now, if this single fixture still misbehaves, it’s possible that the controller is transmitting DMX data too quickly. Some fixtures – especially cheaper one – are not engineered to cope with the full 40Hz update rates that the DMX protocol supports. In this case, you can try lowering the transmit rate of your control to say 20-25Hz.

Summary

This is just a list of the most common & easy to resolve causes of fixture problems on a DMX lighting rig. While not an exhaustive list of everything that can go wrong, these are certainly the first things you should check out before deciding whether a fixture is actually defective.

Dave Brown
db audioware

Lights not fading smoothly when using Show Buddy Active

Lights not fading smoothly when using Show Buddy Active

If your lights do not fade smoothly under Show Buddy Active control (and you are using a Windows computer) this may be caused by incorrect audio driver settings.

In the Show Buddy Active standalone, go to File > Settings > Audio/MIDI Settings and select an audio driver with a low latency, ideally less than 30ms.

If you get the problem with the Show Buddy Active plugin in an audio host, try reducing the audio buffer size in the host program to 40ms or lower.

Background: Show Buddy Active uses the incoming audio stream for synchronisation. If the audio is being passed to Show Buddy Active in very large buffers (i.e. if the audio latency is more than 40ms) this will slow down the DMX refresh rate, which in turn can cause flickering lights. It can also cause your audio to run out of sync with the lighting.

Controlling Show Buddy Active using MIDI

Controlling Show Buddy Active using MIDI

This page explains how to use MIDI to control Show Buddy Active – either the Show Buddy Active standalone, or the Show Buddy Active plug-in running inside a host program (e.g. Logic, Cubase, Ableton Live….)

Note – you can freely mix MIDI control with manual control (via mouse/touchscreen), and host automation (if using the Show Buddy Active plug-in). For example, you could use a standard footswitch to advance through your presets, while using a MIDI controller to manually fire your smoke machine and audience blinders.

Show Buddy Active Remote Control

Click the Remote control button on the main screen to access the remote control window. This is where you assign MIDI and keyboard commands to remotely trigger various Show Buddy Active features.

Most buttons and sliders in Show Buddy Active can be remotely adjusted from a MIDI controller or keyboard. Buttons can also be controlled from the computer keyboard (or a standard USB foot switch)

When this window is open, it listens to all MIDI devices for Notes or CC controller messages, and all connected keyboards for key presses. (See the Preferences window for how to enable connected MIDI controllers)

First, select one or more items in the list. (Use shift-click or ctrl-click / cmd-click).

Then activate a knob/slider/button on your MIDI controller or press any key on a connected keyboard. Those items are now associated with that MIDI controller or key press.

MIDI Learn associations in the current show will be remembered when you quit Show Buddy Active. The same associations are also shared between the standalone program and the Show Buddy Active plug-ins.

To clear associations, first select the controls in the list, then click the “Clear…” button.

Note on “Fade Time” : CC values from 0-100 adjusts the crossfade time between 0.0s and 1.0s in 10ms increments (e.g. CC value 55 = 550ms crossfade). Higher values increase the crossfade in full seconds. (e.g. CC value 114 = 14s crossfade).

In addition to allowing hands-on modification of crossfade time from a MIDI control surface, this is also extremely useful when programming show from a DAW such as Logic Pro or Cubase. You can control the crossfade time directly from the DAW timeline by dropping in Fade Time CC commands just before a preset change.

A note on MIDI resolution

MIDI CC and Note messages have a resolution of 7 bits, (0-127). The resolution of a single DMX channel is 8 bits (0-255). Therefore, if you control Show Buddy Active using MIDI CCs or Notes, you will not get the full resolution available. This could manifest itself as jerky movements of scanners & moving heads, for example. The solution (if available on your MIDI controller) is to use high resolution 14-bit MIDI NRPN messages to control Show Buddy Active.

Bank/Preset control

By default, Show Buddy Active listens for “Note ON” messages on MIDI channels 15/16, and uses these to switch banks & presets. For example, sending MIDI Note 1 (i.e. the lowest MIDI note possible) on Channel 15 would load the 1st bank, and sending MIDI Note 6 on Channel 16 would load the 6th preset in the current bank.

Note : you can change the MIDI 15/16 channel assignments from the Preferences window.

Alternatively, you can switch banks/presets with CC #32 (Bank Change LSB) and Program Change MIDI messages (on any MIDI channel). Note that CC #0 (Bank Change MSB) messages are ignored.

My lightshow doesn’t play back accurately, and some events don’t play at all

The problem – bad timing

You have programmed some fast changes into your DMX light show, for example to follow the beat of a song. But your lights seem to react sluggishly, and sometimes the lights seem to skip a beat.

The bottom line

The DMX protocol is not designed to handle very fast lighting changes, and you cannot make your lighting rig strobe accurately at high speeds (e.g. 16th notes @ 120bpm).

The detailed explanation

The DMX protocol allows for updating your lights at a maximum of 40Hz – that’s one update every 25ms. However, because many lights struggle to cope with the 40Hz rate, some controllers (including DMXIS) deliberately throttle the update rate to 25Hz, or one update every 40ms. This means you will run into timing anomalies quite easily if you try to program fast strobes.

A little math is required to explain further. Say you want your lights to flash on every beat of a 120bpm song. Each beat lasts 60/120 = 500ms, so to flash the lights on/off requires a DMX event sent every 250ms. This is much higher than the 40ms update rate, so all looks good…

Now, say you want to flash on every 1/2 beat. This needs a DMX event every 250/2 = 125ms. This is higher than the 40ms update rate, so every update will be received by your lights. But, you will start to notice some timing inaccuracies in the strobe effect…

Now, let’s go to 1/8 beat strobing. This needs a DMX event every 62.5/2 = 31.25ms. So now we’re in trouble – not only will the lights be unable to accurately track your desired pattern, but you will actually drop some events because the DMX hardware simply cannot keep up with the changes…

Unfortunately, the DMX protocol simply doesn’t handle fast changes well. If you want to strobe quickly, use the “strobe” macro feature that is built into most DMX lights. While they may not strobe perfectly in sync, they will at least strobe at a consistent rate.